How to Install a Multi-Species Native Lawn for Less Mowing, Less Watering, Less Weeding and, Yes, Less Guilt.

Grass species. From our on-going research here at the Wildflower Center, we have found that a mix of ‘buffalograss’ (Bouteloua dactyloides (formerly Buchloe dactyloides)), ‘blue grama’ (Bouteloua gracilis) and ‘curly mesquite’ (Hilaria belangeri) needs less mowing, watering and weeding and simulates nature’s shortgrass prairies. Although different species, these grasses have almost identically shaped leaves and color and produce a great-looking, even-textured, dense lawn. They are available from native seed suppliers such as Native American Seeds (www.seedsource.com) , King Seeds (www.dkseeds.com) and other seed suppliers. For every 1000 square feet you will need 2lb of buffalograss, 1½ lb of bluegrama and at least 4 oz of curly mesquite.

Soil.
A well-textured, well-drained soil is essential for long term lawn success. Normally, developers spread a couple of inches of imported soil over a layer compacted by heavy construction machinery. But a sustainable lawn needs deep roots, so rip, rotovate or disk your soil to at least 8″ – the deeper the better. Then incorporate a ½” of living compost with a low nitrogen and low phosphorus content into the top 3″ of your prepared soil. Ask your local plant nursery for recommendations. DO NOT use mulch (e.g. shredded tree bark or wood shavings) grass won’t grow in this. The soil surface should be finished to a fine granular texture and free from large stones. Note: if you are on undisturbed, uncompacted native soils then till lightly and add ¼” compost into the top 1″ or alternatively add a compost tea.

Sow.
Sow the seed (the small, hand-cranked seed broadcasters are great), and rake and press (garden roller or feet) it into soil for good soil-seed contact. Early spring is the best sowing time once soil temperatures pick-up. Later in the growing season will work but takes more water. Avoid mid-summer and winter.

Irrigation.
The lawn area should be irrigated every day for the first 10 days to prevent soil drying out. Thereafter, two soil-wetting (top 4″ of soil) events per week for the next month, then two soil-wetting (top 6″ of soil minimum) events per month for the next two months of the growing season (March – November). As they appear remove weeds before they go to seed or become too established. Once the lawn is established, say, four months, you may opt to stop irrigating to save water and allow the lawn to go ‘drought dormant’. The native grasses will go brown and temporarily stop growing, but, adapted to drought, will green-up once rain returns.

Mowing.
This depends on how you want your lawn to look. We suggest a 3-4″ high cut for a great-looking, dense turf, resistant to foot traffic (within reason) and weeds. Mow once every 3-5 weeks when growing and not at all when drought or cold dormant. Mowing shorter (below 2″) will decrease your lawn’s health. Conversely, not mowing at all through the growing season will prevent new shoot growth which reduces the turf density. However, allowing the grass to seed-out once a year (e.g. when you go on vacation) guarantees a good seed bank – insurance against drought, heavy foot traffic and weeds.

Feeding.
By returning the grass cuttings directly to the soil, annual feeding should not be necessary. A healthy, living soil (because you added live compost), plus the natural ‘rain’ of airborne nutrients will be sufficient to keep your lawn at ecological equilibrium just like a natural prairie. But for high-use lawns with children and/or pets, or on freely-draining soils, a fall dressing with a low-nutrient, living-compost or compost tea plus an aeration (with a garden fork or similar tool) will certainly help.

Warning.

If you do not prepare the soil adequately, your lawn will suffer and you will get weeds
If you mow too often and too short, you will get weeds
If you over-water, you will get weeds
If you over-fertilizer, you will get big weeds

Less is more.
Simulating the natural conditions in a native grassland — low-nutrient soils, native grasses, occasional rainfall, occasional grazing – can help us achieve a sustainable, healthy native lawn. So:

Prepare the soil (prairie soil takes thousands of years to form, you will need to kick-start yours)
Use appropriate native species (if they can’t take the heat they wouldn’t be here)
Mow less (natives grow much slower than over-fed St. Augustine and bermudagrass)
Irrigate with occasional deep water events and rainfall, and maybe let it go dormant in summer
Minimize nutrient inputs (native prairies aren’t synthetically fertilized)

How to Get Rid of Dandelions

The Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) is a hearty broadleaf weed that grows very, very easily. It’s named for it’s sharp, serrated leaves that resemble lion’s teeth. 

Too bad we don’t want it in our lawns. Dandelions are super easy to grow and spread like wildfire. Once dandelions get started, they blow apart, sending those fine little flying filaments as far as several miles. Everywhere they land, they start a new colony of dandelions. Getting rid of them, once they’re settled into your lawn, is an annual ritual. Hopefully I can share of couple of things to make this an easier task for you.

Dandelions were brought to the United States from Europe for use as a medicinal plant. In this regard, it works astonishingly well. It can be used as a diuretic.

It’s also a good source of vitamins, and can be made into a delightful wine. The Whole Foods Market near me actually has them in stock and sells them! While this may be great for your health, it can ruin the looks and health of your lawn.

One of the best ways to deal with dandelions is to hand-pull them (or use a special dandelion weeding tool) from your lawn before they morph into seed umbrellas.

Grab them at the base and make sure you yank out the taproots. You might be fighting a losing battle if your dandelion crop grows from the same root base every spring. In this case, you’ll need to dig them out completely–tap roots can descend as deep as 15 feet depending on your soil. Ouch. How crazy is that??

Treat Dandelions below the Lawn

Once dandelions get a solid footing in your lawn, they form a dense matting. This is typically in a circular pattern. Once the roots are down deep, pulling or digging may not work any more.

In this case, spot spraying your lawn with Glyphosate can kill off the weeds.

The problem with this is it can also leave dead patches of grass. 

Another option is to apply a pre-emergent herbicide like Isoxaben. This can be effective if you water it in your lawn before the temperature reaches a constant 77 degrees. The reason for this is once it’s pretty much 77 or hotter, the seeds begin to germinate.

Using herbicides too soon will burn off dandelion leaves, but the roots will send out fresh shoots come summertime.

You don’t have to use chemicals to have a beautiful lawn. In fact, your lawn will be much healthier if you ban the use of chemicals. In addition, chemicals can poison soil and contaminate water. Use the following tips to get your lawn off drugs.

• Remove weeds by hand. It’s the best type of weed control. Eighty percent of all weeds are annuals. If you remove them before they go to seed, you will be rid of them. If some weeds in your lawn are perennials, dig out the entire root system to ensure they can’t grow back.

• Tolerate beneficial weeds, such as clover. Clover is a nitrogen magic plant that will enhance the health and beauty of your lawn.

• Test your lawn’s soil, using a soil test kit. This will tell you how much organic matter is in the soil, the ph balance and what nutrients to obtain a perfect soil balance.

• If your lawn has bare spots, reseed with a mixture of grass varieties. Most diseases that infiltrate your lawn are very selective. By using a mixture of grasses, you will ensure that your lawn will not be totally wiped out by disease.

• Aerate to prevent the soil from becoming compacted. You will also break through heavy thatch. This allows nutrients and organic matter to reach your lawn’s root system. The best aerators in the world are earthworms.

• If the thatch layer is more than a half inch thick, it’s time to de-thatch. Thatch prevents air, nutrients and water from getting to the soil and promotes a wide variety of problems. If you aerate and rake your lawn briskly, most of the thatch will be removed. Some thatch is beneficial to your lawn because it promotes decomposition of grass clippings and organic matter.

• Grass should always be two to three inches high. Only cut one third of the height at one time to prevent grass from going into shock. It’s imperative that the mower blade is always sharp to prevent grass damage. Tall grass grows longer roots, shades the soil and prevents weed infiltration.

• Always use natural fertilizers. They release nutrients into the soil and allow it to retain them longer. Organic fertilizer decomposes thatch and grass clippings quickly. Sheep manure is one of the best natural fertilizers available.

• Water only when your lawn requires it and then water deeply. If you water frequently and lightly, your lawn will have shallow roots, which makes it more susceptible to disease and insects. If water runs off easily, it’s a sign that you need to aerate.

• Do not remove grass clippings. Not only does your lawn require less raking, but the clippings act as natural fertilizer when they aren’t coated with chemicals. Assure grass clippings are not clumped to promote the decomposition process.

• Do not use herbicides or pesticides. Chemicals kill birds, insects and earthworms that are beneficial to your lawn’s health. If you practice natural lawn care, you will discourage pests.

• Invite beneficial micro organisms and earthworms to your lawn, as well as dragonflies, ladybugs, spiders, toads and frogs. These creatures are the secret to having a healthy and drug free lawn.

Watering Your Lawn

 Water composition of healthy grass is between 70 and 85%. Water is essential to grass, just as it is to humans. It promotes the manufacture of food, seed germination, nutrient transport and absorption, cooling and the formation of tissue. Grass loses water when temperatures are high, humidity is low, when there is a brisk wind and with sun intensity. If grass doesn’t have the proper amount of water, it cannot cool and is susceptible to browning, disease, wilting and death.

The amount of water your lawn requires depends on the type of grass it consists of. Usually, one inch of water per week is sufficient, even in drought conditions. The amount of water your lawn receives can be easily measured by placing a shallow tin in your lawn and marking the side of it. If nature provides adequate rainfall, watering is not necessary.

If you water your lawn too much, it will lead to fungal disease, excessive growth and very frequent mowing. It also wastes water and power resources and causes pesticides and fertilizers become ineffective. These can get into the sewer system and cause water treatment problems.

Q: How often should I cut my lawn?
A: As part of quality lawn care, regular cutting with a mower should be observed and the grass should be cut to an even height. Cutting your lawn once per week should be sufficient.

Q: What is the purpose of raking my lawn?
A: This is commonly done in order to remove dead grass. Many people only rake their lawn in the fall as the leaves begin to cover their yard, but a part of effective lawn care requires that lawns by raked during other seasons as well.

Q: Does lawn care require that I water my lawn?
A: Not everyone does this, but it is recommended that lawns be watered in order to avoid having the grass to dry up and turn brown. If this happens, you could be left with brown spots in your yard.

Q: I have a dog and he is reeking havoc on the yard. How can I replant my lawn with success?
A: Dogs and lawn care are not the best match, but they can work together. When you replant your lawn, consider using seeds that are specifically designed for high traffic areas. Other factors that may worsen the effect that your dog is having on the lawn may include a chain dragging the grass and exposing the dirt surface below or if your dog is prone to digging.

Q: Should I use harsh chemicals on my lawn in order to rid it of pests and insects?
A: Many experts agree that this is a bad idea for several reasons. If you have children who play in the yard, this may be unhealthy for them. The same is true of pets, who make it a habit of digging or even eating grass at times. In addition, harsh chemicals often do more harm than good to your lawn and are certainly no friend of the environment. Instead, try a bug light or other means of ridding your lawn of insects and other pests.

Lawn care is a very big industry, which services millions of people every year. Whether you do not have the time to care for the lawn yourself or simply aren’t up to the task, there are a number of landscaping experts that are readily available to help with lawn care needs. These are commonly found in the yellow pages under ‘Landscaping’ and most businesses can provide you with an instant quote over the telephone if you have detailed information regarding your specific lawn care needs.

Though everyone likes to see their lawn in an enviable condition few are aware of the basics of lawn preparation and maintenance. Planting the seeds, spraying for the weeds, and watering your lawn, all look simple but proper maintenance of a good lawn is no simple task. To some, lawn care is serious business – reading every bit of the literature that they come across and going for a serious lawn building exercise that may make this interesting past time a rudimentary daily routine.

Lawn care and maintenance is more of an enjoyable past time rather than a core activity. Consider these basics of healthy lawn care. While talking about lawns the first thing to consider is mowing. The frequency of mowing, the growth of the grass, and the lawn movers are all integral part in deciding a good mowing habit. Quite often small opening up of the soil leaving more space for the lawn to breathe would accelerate healthy growth of the grass. The lawn is to be sufficiently watered especially during large dry spells of summer to sustain the growth of the grass. Lawns need a good supplement of a proper mix of fertilizers with adequate nitrogen phosphate and potash.

If we go a bit technical, lawns require more than one annual feed. The feed for the summer need contain a nitrogen rich fertilizer where as an autumn feed should be rich in phosphate and potash with an adequate supplement of worm killers and disease resistance. For watering, the coolest time of the day, either in the morning or in the evening is advisable, the frequency being once a week.

A good lawn care management program includes proper weed control besides appropriate mowing and application of fertilizers. The basic mowing lesson includes use of sharp blades and regular mowing from March to October. Care should be taken not to move the mower backwards and forwards. In the case of new lawns, the first thing to be considered is to prepare a smooth and level ground by a tractor and box blade. As regards sowing the seeds they need spread in two directions preferably with a rotary spreader. The seeds are to be planted around thirty days in advance. Depending upon the temperature the seed suitable for hot season or for the cold spell may be selected. A healthy lawn requires more or less an inch of water during a week. Further aerating in spring is considered best for the lawns. The recent trend in the lawn care is the use of the organic fertilizers. These are environmental friendly and harmless to the plants. Literature on organic fertilizers is plentiful on the market. The cost of the organic fertilizers is almost the same that of the chemical fertilizers but the benefit stays longer.

The type of lawn care depends on one’s budget. One can afford to spend thousands of dollars should the lawn making is taken as a serious hobby. If, on the other, hand one needs a well maintained lawn to spend a few hours with family and friends the same may not cost much.

Time-strapped homeowners take heart-you can have an natural green lawn. Dedicating less than two hours a week to the average lawn can produce great results if you prioritize your tasks, says the nationally known “Yard Doctor,” Trey Rogers, Ph.D.

A recent survey revealed that consumers’ number one lawn care problem was finding enough time to care for their yards.

“Having a nice-looking lawn is important to most homeowners,” explains Rogers, the Michigan State University turf scientist who has helped grow grass for the Olympic Games as well as for average homeowners. “But when busy schedules create a time crunch, you can prioritize your lawn care tasks and look for shortcuts that will still allow you to have a good-looking lawn.”

He suggests these time-savers:

• Cut your lawn less often. Never “scalp” your lawn thinking you can mow less often. Letting grass grow a little longer is far healthier than mowing too close. Scalping damages the grass blades, preventing the damaged lawn from fending off pests, disease and weeds. When you mow, cut only a third of the length of the grass.

• Water more efficiently. If you use manually placed sprinklers, set them properly the first time you use them so they water as much of your lawn as possible without sprinkling sidewalks or driveways. Mark the locations so you won’t have to guess the next time. If you can leave the sprinkler attached to a water hose, you save a few more minutes-just unreel the hose. Water in the morning (perhaps while you are getting ready for work or getting the kids off to school) to enhance absorption and avoid evaporation.

• Get the kids to help. Put your kids in charge of easy yard care chores. Have them clear away all toys, sticks and other objects before you mow. They can also help with watering. Children should be out of the area and under supervision before you start to mow, however.

• Fertilize once, when it can do the most good. If you only have time for one application a year, fertilize at the beginning of the growing season with a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer. It’s less likely to damage your lawn if your application technique is not perfect, and it will continue to work for weeks.

• Keep your mower in good working order. Have it tuned up once a year or do it yourself (it takes 30 minutes or less).

The Yard Doctor is part of the Briggs & Stratton Yard Smarts program, created to help homeowners achieve the yard they really want to have by providing knowledge and inspiration on lawn and yard care.

If you are pressed for time but want your yard to look nice, mow the front lawn first and the back in a day or two.

If you’re lucky enough to have a lawn with a good topsoil base, much of the hard work of keeping a lawn beautiful is already done for you. But many of us do not have this luxury, and besides, even with a good topsoil base, you still have to work hard to keep a beautiful lawn and garden.

1. The best time to mow a lawn is when it is cool and dry. Wait for the morning dew to dry off, and before the afternoon heat takes hold. Alternatively, late afternoon or early evening following a watering in the morning is also a good time.

2. A hedge is a much better boundary divider than a fence. It will provide better privacy and keep pets and children in – or out. It will attract birds to its shelter, and provide a great backdrop for plants and flowers.

3. Bring the beauty of your garden to you; plant hyacinths near walkways and doors. Their magnificent perfume will swamp the spring air and make your garden really come alive.

4. Add your garden to non-garden items, such a lampposts and mail boxes. Surround these items with flowers planted to take advantage of the earliest to the latest flowerings. You could have white snowdrops, purple and gold crocus, blue hyacinths, and various colored tulips. You could also surround the posts with rocks to provide added interest.

5. Simple, but effective weed control can be achieved on your lawn by mowing often during spring. This will prevent dandelions spreading by eliminating the yellow blossoms and preventing seed formation. Mow high during late spring and early summer. This will allow grass blades to shade the ground, and will help prevent crabgrass from sprouting.

Your lawn and garden should be a source of pride and beauty. You don’t need to spend lots of money on expensive fertilizers and herbicides, or fancy lawn furniture and ornaments. A little commonsense and thought can go a long way to making your lawn and garden a much better place.